I can see the logic, and it is very interesting dtapke that you intentionally brew a low ABV NEIPA. That is very encouraging that I may have a good beer which would be good for dry hopping. The beer was meant to be a robust porter dry-hopped with Chinook, but given it is only going to be 2.75% ABV, I think I may not bother with dry hops and drink it as if it were a mild, albeit with slightly low ABV for the style, but at least closer to the style and potentially more palatable by leaving out the dry hops! I am seriously reconsidering buying a Grainfather now as well for the precise mash temp control and perhaps a more repeatable, consistent process particularly when I have more experience of BeerSmith and a fully optimised equipment profile etc. It is my mistake and I will continue to use it as I can clearly see the benefits outweigh the disadvantages. at dough in, lack of control/inconsistency in the process and all the time spent doing the recipe, equipment and water volume calculations manually, although I have never had a disaster until now using BrewSmith. The main disadvantage of my cooler system is the stress of trying to hit mash temp. I ironically, I decided not to purchase a Grainfather as I was already getting great results with my picnic cooler system and I liked the simplicity/low cost of it. ![]() I am only only my 3rd brew using BrewSmith so I guess these things may happen until fully transitioned over to BeerSmith as it were. Its a bit annoying, as when I did my own brewing calculations manually I never had any problems but now I use BrewSmith to do the calculations I have run into problems. You probably have that part under control.ĭoughing in a bit lower sounds like a good idea and can understand how this may be less harmful. Then there's the usual suspects of malt conversion, hot break, sanitizer use, etc. Underpitching could be a reason that the pH rises and stalls fermentation. A pH of 4.6 and above can cause the yeast to quit and flocculate. The pH of the fermentation should be around 4.3 to 4.5. All other factors I trust that you have measured and control. The above advice is taking your experience into account. A West Coast Ale yeast should have no such issues. There are some English strains that struggle to get over 5% under even the best circumstances. You can reoxygenate the wort, which *may* roust the yeast. This is overcome by higher levels of oxygen when you're pitching. The cause could be in how they grow their yeast where there isn't enough zinc in their process. If there is a nutrient issue, it'd be zinc. With the same performance on two different strains, you really don't have much o go on. ![]() Without nutrient, I see performance issues on 4 to 6 generations. I go 14 to 20 generations, across 100 batches, commercially. Nutrient additions show worth when you're harvesting and repitching multiple times. Yeast nutrients should not be an issue as I have many successful brews under my belt (some prize winning) without ever using yeast nutrient and my process has not changed on these last two troublesome brews.Īny feedback or comments would be welcome, thanks.Ī fresh-from-the-factory yeast in all malt wort shouldn't need any nutrient. This is really just a rescue attempt now to try to salvage this brew! Stirring up the yeast is the last resort, before doing that I am going to add some more yeast to try to get it fermenting again with a non NBS yeast I hasten to add. The sample began ferementing very quickly showing that fermentables are still present in the wort. I drew of some wort today, double checked the gravity and then added some (bread) yeast to the sample. Temperature control of my brews has been with an Inkbird so should not be the issue. I contacted the supplier after it had sat at 1.030 for 24hrs and they advised that this yeast starts very quickly and would then tick over going down more gradually over the following days, however, I can report that it is still at 1.030 after 72hrs! I wish I hadn't now! The 1.050 OG brew started ferementing vigorously within a few hours and went down to 1.030 in 48hrs according to my Tilt. I was wary about using NBS yeast in my next brew but went against my instinct and tried using NBS West Coast Style Ale Yeast. I have never experienced that with a yeast before. remained the same over the remaining 7-10 days I left in my primary fermenter). The NBS Classic English Ale Yeast fermeted out a Timothy Taylor Landlord clone in about 3 days flat and then sat there apparently doing nothing (F.G. ![]() ![]() I have experienced issues with both brews and wondered if anybody else has had any (similar) issues with these yeasts? I am a fairly experienced homebrewer and have recently used NBS Classic English Ale Yeast and NBS West Coast Style Ale Yeast on my last two brews.
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